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	<title>The PowrTuner Channel - Updated Each Hour</title>
	<description><![CDATA[latest news from the Acceleration & Technical Discussion Forums]]></description>
	<link>http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php</link>
	<pubDate>Fri, 03 Sep 2010 19:26:02 -0400</pubDate>
	<ttl>60</ttl>
	<image>
		<title>The PowrTuner Channel - Updated Each Hour</title>
		<url></url>
		<link>http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php</link>
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	<item>
		<title>Stick With 2.7 Pulley On Gen V Or Pulley Up?</title>
		<link>http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php?showtopic=7862</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I am trying to make a decision if I should keep the 2.7 Pulley on my Gen V or pulley up to a 2.8?<br /><br />When I changed from my old gen III with a 2.7 pulley over to a gen V my original plan was to start with a 3.0 pulley. However with my new belt wrap system, the 2.7 Pulley was only pulley I could run with the belt I had on hand. I also dont have a 2.8 or 2.9 pulley to work with. <br /><br />However I feel the 2.7 pulley maybe too small of a pulley to run with the expectations I am trying to get out of my tune. <br /><br />I am currently running 11.8 AFR with 17* to 23* timing at WOT on 93 octane. I am seeing around 13.0 to 14.5 PSI at WOT (according to the stock boost gauge). <br /><br />My goal was to keep the AFR at 11.8+ and have my WOT timing no less than 18*.<br /><br />However as soon as my car goes into 3rd gear I start to get KR and that is why I had to lower the 3rd gear RPM timing down to 17*. If not, I get KR no matter what. I actually still see blips of KR at WOT, however its normally like 0.2 at the most.  <br /><br />This is the reason why I feel the 2.7 just maybe is too much for my setup on pump gas? <br /><br />SO do you guys think I should keep the car as-is or get a 2.8 pulley?<br /><br />Ideally with the 2.8 pulley I will be able to run my constant 11.8 AFR and 18*+ WOT timing.<br /><br />If anyone has a 2.8 pulley I would like to buy or trade with a 2.55 and 3.0 pulley I have left over.<br /><br />You can look at my signature below for what mods I am running. <br /><br />]]></description>
		<starter>geforcextreme</starter>
		<poster>Eddie-98GTP</poster>
		<pubDate>Sun, 23 May 2010 15:36:18 -0400</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Tue, 25 May 2010 20:15:17 -0400</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">7862</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>Odd Bahaviour After Adding Dry Kit</title>
		<link>http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php?showtopic=7853</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I can't explain what's going on here and I need some professional help on this one.  I bought a very small "cheater" (1.4 lb) dry kit for my car and hooked it up but not after doing some very extensive VE, MAF and Spark tuning to make sure I wasn't going to blow my engine the first time.  I also started with the smallest jet which is a mere 14 HP....practically nothing.  I just went for a drive and did a scan.  I brought the car up to WOT and let er rip.  The instant I pressed the button the car immediately lost a ton of power and just folded....a fraction of a second later it went back up to what I presume is full power although I can't tell if it's full or greater than full or less than full or w/e.  This scared the shit out of me so I went home and looked at my scan.  Apparently when I shot the nos, my injectors decided to run at about half their pulse width and my O2 voltage dropped to practically 0 <img src="http://www.powrtuner.com/style_emoticons/default/frown.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":(" border="0" alt="frown.gif" />  Half a second later they jumped back up again.  Similarly the MAF readings fell in sync with the injectors.  I have no idea why this would happen.  My KR was about maybe half a degree to 1 degree, which is nothing because I see worse than that under normal conditions at WOT so I guess I didn't do any damage but I can't figure why the MAF would report LESS air due to the nitrous....<br /><br />Somebody please help me with this...I can upload my bin or scan upon request.  Thanks a lot.]]></description>
		<starter>RocketMan</starter>
		<poster>3400-Modified</poster>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 May 2010 16:53:14 -0400</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Thu, 27 May 2010 10:39:49 -0400</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">7853</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Series Iii To Ii Conversion</title>
		<link>http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php?showtopic=7841</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Working on another wiring harness for a 3800SC Fiero swap that is using a series III engine but being wired for a series II PCM so it will work with a manual tranny.<br />My question is will the series III MAP sensor work with the series II PCM, in the past I have always just used a series II MAP and be done with it but this time the customer wants to retain the smaller series III MAP. Thanks Dan]]></description>
		<starter>2ML67</starter>
		<poster>2ML67</poster>
		<pubDate>Thu, 06 May 2010 17:13:47 -0400</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Thu, 06 May 2010 17:13:47 -0400</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">7841</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>Msd #2312 2 Bar Map Sensor</title>
		<link>http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php?showtopic=7815</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I got a forced 02 3100 malibu, that i would like to try using  the msd 2 bar map, according to msd its a universal model which is all well and good, but i don't know what to use for the offset, scaling factor and the others, has anybody tried using that sensor and if so what are the results. I'm using tiny tuner, in the supercharged section there is supercharger 0n or off, i'm going to set it to on and try that msd if i can get the right factors to flash.]]></description>
		<starter>drayrunner</starter>
		<poster>drayrunner</poster>
		<pubDate>Sat, 27 Mar 2010 16:45:35 -0400</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Sat, 27 Mar 2010 16:45:35 -0400</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">7815</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Ring Gap/chiped Pistons</title>
		<link>http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php?showtopic=7781</link>
		<description><![CDATA[anybody know the stock ring gap?? alot of pistons seemed to be chiped because of the close ring gap, once heated they expand and well push out on the piston and chip it.<br /><br />anybody that has maybe rebuilt the motor, did you use a larger ring gap??? if so how large?]]></description>
		<starter>blowfishRus6</starter>
		<poster>Gary</poster>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Feb 2010 10:39:00 -0500</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Thu, 18 Feb 2010 13:04:17 -0500</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">7781</guid>
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	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[Dynoed With New Tune And '96 Intakes]]></title>
		<link>http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php?showtopic=7773</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Dynoed my car after my newest mods.. '96 intakes and did about 2 seconds of tuning to lean out the AFR 11:1-11.5:1. we had some problems getting accurate tq numbers.. have not done any other tuning except scaling MAF to correct the AFR...<br /><br />1995 Z34 Monte Carlo<br />2.5" Mandrel exhaust, T04E Super 60 Turbo, 42.5# injectors, OBDII Swap, '96 Intake Manifolds, Spearco Intercooler<br /><br />we had problems getting the TQ numbers to display..<br />Dyno 1: 331.25hp<br />Dyno 2: 327.55hp <br />Dyno 3: 327.41hp<br /><br />shitty cell videos<br /><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m95l1lsT7sg" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m95l1lsT7sg</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1go7HrAaZIE" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1go7HrAaZIE</a><br /><br />7 psi, Full exhaust <br /><img src="http://60degreev6.com/forum/gallery/files/6/0/4/1/dyno7psi_original.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /><br /><br />One of the guys on the other board took the liberty of caculating the TQ numbers for me based upon my 3rd dyno<br /><b>RPM    HP     TQ</b><br />2500    50    105<br />2750    78    149<br />3000   125   219<br />3250   155   250<br />3500   186   279<br />3750   230   322<br />4000   268   352<br />4250   287   <b>355</b><br />4500   302   352<br />4750   310   343<br />5000   313   329<br />5250   318   318<br />5500   322   307<br />5750   <b>327</b>   299<br />6000   323   283<br />6250   318   267<br />6500   306   247<br />6750   292   227<br /><br /><img src="http://60degreev6.com/forum/gallery/files/6/0/4/1/03turbo-96.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /><br /><br /><br />Shane]]></description>
		<starter>Redzmonte</starter>
		<poster>Highlander</poster>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Jan 2010 18:39:08 -0500</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Fri, 05 Feb 2010 02:29:19 -0500</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">7773</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Bcm Removal</title>
		<link>http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php?showtopic=7750</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Having Electrical issues stemming from the lock cylinder and going straight into the ABS Module and Traction ccontrol system.  The only item I cannot for the life of me locate is the Body Control Module. I have a 2002 Monte Carlo SS 3.8.  I'm just wondering if anyone can't either point me in the right direction with a link to follow or maybe just describe how to uncover it <img src="http://www.powrtuner.com/style_emoticons/default/lol.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="lol" border="0" alt="lol.gif" />.  I have had issues with the BCM before but had it done under warranty so I never got a chance to see it.]]></description>
		<starter>WhiteKnight</starter>
		<poster>krunchss</poster>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Dec 2009 14:39:59 -0500</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Sun, 20 Dec 2009 13:45:18 -0500</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">7750</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Misfires On Cylinder #3 And #5</title>
		<link>http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php?showtopic=7745</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I made a post a few weeks back about my car feeling like it was misfiring badly under WOT conditions on other car forums. For awhile my was was running great with my 2.7 pulley, 104 spark plugs gapped at .053 and I has no misfiring or issues at all. Then one day I took the car out and during WOT runs it was misfiring very bad. I soon discovered that my 104's had over 16K on them and they were certainly due for a change.  <br /><br />I have since swapped in ar103 spark plugs gapped at .053. Everything seemed to be ok after changing the plugs as I thought. But when I went to this dyno event a few weeks back with the new plugs, I felt a misfire or so on the dyno.<br /><br />I kind of blew it off because I wasn't seeing any misfires in my scanner (which I found out was another issue which I discovered below). Well 2 weeks later I went out for a WOT scan and my car was back to misfiring but this time really bad!<br /><br />I soon discovered that because I had the PCM code P0300 disabled, My scanner would not detect any misfires. After re-enabling that code and taking the car out last night. I am now seeing misfires.<br /><br />Oddly enough I am not seeing any misfires in my scanner at WOT. Yet I can still feel it myself personally?<br /><br />I did see misfires on Cylinders #3 and #5 at exactly the same time. This occurred at different rpm's and mph's but only when the car was cruising around? Every once in awhile I would only see a misfire on cylinder #3 or #5 by itself. I thought possibly that because it was 2 cylinders, one of the coil packs was the cause of the issue. But I realized that cylinder #3 and #5 are on separate coils.<br /><br />I picked up a new set of ZZP spark plug wires and hope after installing these, will correct my issue. If not what really could my issue be? I just don't understand how everything was ok for the longest time with the 104s and 2.7 pulley then all of a sudden it got worse, swapped the plugs with new ones and it seems to be getting worse now?<br /><br />Currently my AC Delco wires have around 24K on them. That isn't too much but they aren't exactly new anyway. Being ZZP had that sale I just decided for the heck of it to swap out for those wires and hope for the best. <br /><br />I am going to try the new wires and if that doesn't help de-gap my spark plugs. However I just don't see why I would need to de-gap them if I was able to run that gap size before. Now my coil packs I think are original with 154K...maybe that could be my issue also?<br />]]></description>
		<starter>geforcextreme</starter>
		<poster>geforcextreme</poster>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Dec 2009 12:31:30 -0500</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Fri, 04 Dec 2009 12:31:30 -0500</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">7745</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>11* At Wide Open</title>
		<link>http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php?showtopic=7740</link>
		<description>ok so i just recently installed an XP cam and rebuilt my trans and now only have 11* of timming and no traction control.  i went to the dyno yesterday to tune the impala only to notice that traction control would not turn off nor would it activate and once under full throttle it would run a max of 11* of timming.  now i do run a happy knob which is working because under IAT it will change as i turn the knob.  I figure that the pulled timming is result from this traction control issue.  ive checked torque management folders just to see if there might be something i had forgotten to change but all those tables are still the same pre XP cam.</description>
		<starter>impalamike3800</starter>
		<poster>impalamike3800</poster>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Nov 2009 11:43:44 -0500</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Sun, 29 Nov 2009 11:43:44 -0500</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">7740</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Decel Issues</title>
		<link>http://www.powrtuner.com/index.php?showtopic=7732</link>
		<description>ok so i have been having this issue now for about 6 months... when ever i do a run and let off the gas the car drops down to ~500 rpms and wants to die until im stopped then the idle will pick back up.  i threw a new IAC in and still happens.  any ideas?  going to post Bin when i get home from work.</description>
		<starter>impalamike3800</starter>
		<poster>impalamike3800</poster>
		<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 15:45:57 -0500</pubDate>
		<lastPostDate>Sun, 29 Nov 2009 11:34:18 -0500</lastPostDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">7732</guid>
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